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Search results for "Food"

Cheese and pepper (and butter!?)

January 25

After the first bite comes the disappointment. There is a moment, maybe a second or two after you’ve just twirled up that first forkful of pasta and popped it into your mouth, when you realize it: This is not good. This is a mistake, a complete waste of carbohydrates. That’s what I thought as I stared down at […]

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Ending 2016 at the table

January 04

January. I always feel vaguely divided about this month, torn between liking the freshness of a new year and feeling somehow let down by the fact that the cozy, festive initial part of winter is already over while the colder, bleaker part of the season will be settling in for the next few months. January means that […]

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A riot of colours: Photos from Ortigia’s vibrant market

November 20

I love a good market. This is not the same thing as saying that I love grocery shopping, because I generally don’t, particularly when it involves a rainy morning and an armload of too-heavy, clunky, very-nearly-waterlogged bags that I have to carry back to the apartment while juggling an umbrella. But markets in general are […]

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A return to routine (and a recipe for a cake)

September 02

Rome in August: Envision a ghost town, a city empty except for throngs of red-faced tourists fanning themselves with maps. Envision closed stores, closed restaurants, closed coffee bars; metal serrande pulled down tightly over doors and vast swaths of empty parking spaces where it’s normally impossible to park. The best way to enjoy Rome in August […]

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Streets of food: Naples in a day

March 23

A few Saturdays ago, at 7:30am, I found myself sitting on a Frecciarossa train as it streaked towards Naples; Lazio blurring into Campania as green hills flashed by. I hadn’t eaten breakfast yet – just a quick cappuccino downed in the train station – and the edges of my mind still felt heavy with sleep, but I […]

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Artichokes, Roman-style: Learning to love a traditional food

February 25

I had been suspicious of artichokes for a long time. As far as foods go, they’re rather bizarre and thoroughly inhospitable; between the hard, thorn-tipped outer layers and the puff of inedible cottony fluff at the centre, there’s not much about the artichoke that might convince you to turn it into a quick and easy […]

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Lamenting and then savouring summer: A recipe

August 26

Yesterday afternoon, I did something that I haven’t done for months: I pulled a cake out of the oven and set it on top of the stove to cool. It was a simple cake, a fairly basic batter studded with halved plums and showered in brown sugar, but it felt oddly symbolic: plums are an […]

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Despair and frustration at the supermarket: A rant

May 28

I had intended to write about something reasonably interesting to break my months-long silence here, but as I’ve just come back from the supermarket, and, as usual, am feeling irritable after the experience, I’ve decided to write about that instead. Grocery shopping is decidedly un-glamerous, but as it’s also unavoidable – and unavoidably frustrating, especially recently – I will […]

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Sugar and light

December 12

A few weeks ago the Christmas lights went up around the neighbourhood. This was a complicated, dangerous-looking process that involved workmen in fluorescent coveralls zig-zagging across the streets, strings of lights draped over their shoulders and trailing along behind them and ladders haphazardly propped up against buildings. One guy, cigarette clamped firmly between his teeth […]

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I love cooking (sometimes): A confession from the kitchen

November 24

On Friday I ate one of the worst dinners in recent history, a dinner made terrible not by an incompetent restaurant or a disastrous recipe, but by the lack of food in my fridge and sheer laziness. I ate yogurt – plain yogurt, the thin, watery kind that’s utterly unsatisfying at the best of times […]

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One day in the city of chaos and pizza

November 29

On Saturday I woke up, headed to the train station with a friend and took a two-hour train ride to Naples, where we ate a pizza and some pastries before declaring our mission complete and returning home. Let me start off by saying this: Naples hits you hard, and it hits you almost as soon […]

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A weekend in southern Sicily

November 14

From the air, Sicily looks parched and empty; a few lonely villages dotting an otherwise forlorn landscape. Once you’re on the ground, watching the landscape slide by from the windows of an intercity bus, it starts to look a lot greener – palm trees materialize, and cacti, and then groves of deeply green trees laden […]

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